Stepping into the show ring today in a tailored coat and breeches feels natural to me, but the sleek, refined look we associate with English riding took centuries to evolve. I’ve always found it fascinating how function, fashion, and tradition have all played a part in shaping what riders wear today. The evolution of English riding apparel mirrors broader shifts in society, industry, and equestrian sport itself. From the heavy velvet skirts of the aristocracy to the stretch fabrics of modern-day competitors, every stitch and seam carries a story.
I’ve spent time researching older riding manuals, looking at antique photos, and even trying on vintage pieces just to understand what riders wore in different eras. The changes weren’t only driven by aesthetics; they were answers to the demands of safety, comfort, and performance. Understanding the evolution of English riding apparel helped me appreciate not just how far we’ve come, but why our current attire matters so much in maintaining tradition and supporting excellence.
The Early Years: Aristocratic Influence
English riding, as a formalized discipline, traces its roots back to medieval Europe. In those early days, horseback riding was a symbol of nobility and privilege. Men rode for war and sport, and their clothing reflected their social status. It was not yet practical, robes, tights, and heavy cloaks made riding cumbersome, but these garments were meant to impress rather than function.
Women rode side saddle, and their attire often included long skirts, corsets, and elaborately decorated bodices. These outfits prioritized modesty and elegance over mobility. For women, riding was a display of refinement, not an athletic pursuit. In fact, some early side saddles didn’t allow for reins to be held at all. A man would lead the horse, while the woman sat gracefully atop, often dressed in heavy materials like velvet and silk.
During the Tudor and Stuart periods, the evolution of English riding apparel was more about ceremony than practicality. However, even then, riders began to recognize the need for more form-fitting garments that wouldn’t interfere with movement. Leather boots, gloves, and tighter-fitting doublets for men began to hint at what was to come.
The 18th Century: Function Meets Fashion
The 1700s marked a turning point in riding apparel. With fox hunting rising in popularity among English nobility, there was a growing demand for clothing that could handle the physical demands of long rides over varied terrain. This period introduced the frock coat for men, which was more tailored and structured than previous garments. Breeches became the standard lower garment, often paired with high leather boots for protection and grip.
For women, riding habits began to evolve into more practical forms. The habit typically consisted of a long skirt, waistcoat, and jacket that mirrored men’s fashion, along with a top hat or tricorn. Although still quite formal, these outfits allowed for greater ease in the saddle. Side saddle riding remained the norm for women, but habits became more streamlined and began to emphasize practicality without sacrificing elegance.
Tailoring improved significantly during this era, with garments being made specifically for riding rather than adapted from general dress. I always think of this time as the point when riding attire began to balance tradition with the real needs of riders.
The 19th Century: The Rise Of The Riding Habit
By the 1800s, English riding apparel had become more distinct from general fashion. The classic riding habit continued to evolve, with longer fitted jackets, higher collars, and full skirts that could be arranged for riding side saddle. Materials like wool and tweed were favored for their durability, warmth, and ability to withstand the weather, a big advantage for riders out in the countryside.
This century also introduced the use of corsets under riding habits, which gave women a narrow-waisted, upright appearance. While beautiful in silhouette, corsets often limited breathing and movement, and weren’t exactly practical. I tried on a replica Victorian riding corset once and found it nearly impossible to mount a horse, let alone ride comfortably.
For men, the evolution of English riding apparel took the form of more tailored coats and breeches, along with tall black boots and the iconic top hat. These became the norm for both hunting and formal riding occasions.
Toward the end of the 19th century, the invention of the safety side saddle and side saddle apron made it slightly easier for women to ride with confidence. Riding habits became more streamlined, and small changes, like shorter skirts and split hems, hinted at a future where functionality might finally win out over formality.
The 20th Century: A Revolution In Riding Attire
The early 20th century saw dramatic changes in riding apparel, reflecting the greater shifts happening in society. Women’s rights movements, world wars, and advances in fabric technology all played a role in reshaping how riders dressed.
World War I and II had a direct impact. With many men away at war, women took on more active roles, including riding astride instead of side saddle. This was a massive shift, and it signaled a change in what women expected from their riding clothes. Skirts were replaced by breeches and jodhpurs. Women began wearing jackets that allowed for real movement and boots designed for practicality rather than decoration.
The evolution of English riding apparel in this era was all about breaking boundaries. The emergence of equestrian competition as a recognized sport meant that riders needed clothing designed for athleticism. Breeches made from wool gabardine or cotton twill became standard. Tall leather boots were worn by both men and women, while the classic show coat became a staple of formal competitions.
Safety also started to become a priority. The classic hunt cap offered minimal protection, but it became the predecessor to modern riding helmets. I remember finding an old hunt cap in a tack room and marveling at how delicate and thin it was compared to today’s gear.
Modern Times: Performance, Safety, And Style
Today, English riding apparel is a precise combination of function, tradition, and performance. The clothing I wear now is nothing like the corseted outfits or velvet skirts of the past, and yet, it pays homage to them through cut, color, and discipline-specific styles.
Breeches are now made with high-tech fabrics that stretch, wick moisture, and reduce chafing. Knee patches and full seat grips provide extra control in the saddle, especially during jumps or extended flatwork. I’ve tried multiple brands and found that modern fabrics truly make a difference when riding for long hours.
Show coats are slimmer, lighter, and more breathable than ever. Many now include mesh panels or built-in stretch zones. Although black and navy are still classic choices, more riders are experimenting with earth tones, gray, and even subtle plaids.
Helmets have come a long way, too. Safety standards have improved, and today’s helmets offer impact protection, ventilation, and adjustable fits. I never get on a horse without my helmet, it’s a standard that all riders should embrace.
Even boots have transformed. Leather tall boots are now molded to fit like a second skin, and zippers have replaced stiff pull-ons. Some riders also opt for paddock boots and half chaps for schooling sessions, saving tall boots for the show ring.
Sub-Disciplines And Their Influence
One of the fascinating things about the evolution of English riding apparel is how each discipline has developed its own unique look. Dressage riders favor clean lines and dark colors. Jumpers often wear sportier jackets and show shirts. Hunters are all about classic turnout, earth tones, braided manes, and understated elegance.
Eventing combines all three, requiring riders to shift their gear based on the phase of competition. I’ve had to pack three separate outfits for one-day events, and it’s always amazed me how the needs of each discipline shape what we wear.
Fox hunting has kept many traditional elements alive, like red coats (pinks), stock ties, and velvet caps. While modern materials have crept into some hunt attire, many hunts still require members to dress in a way that echoes 18th and 19th-century formality.
Gender And Apparel Equality
The journey of the evolution of English riding apparel wouldn’t be complete without acknowledging the changes in gender expectations. What began as a strictly gendered set of dress codes has now become more inclusive. Men and women wear largely the same attire in competition today, with minor adjustments for fit rather than fashion.
Women now ride astride as the standard and compete at every level of the sport, from local schooling shows to Olympic events. The ability to choose riding apparel based on function, not just appearance, has opened up new levels of comfort and performance for all riders.
Embracing Sustainability And Innovation
Recently, the equestrian world has started paying more attention to sustainable materials and ethical production. Some brands are now offering breeches made from recycled fabrics or environmentally friendly dyes. I’ve tried a few of these options and found them just as durable and breathable as traditional choices.
Innovations like magnetic closures, stretch cuffs, and custom-molded helmets are making apparel more accessible and user-friendly. While tradition still holds strong, the future of English riding wear looks brighter, safer, and more inclusive.
Conclusion
The evolution of English riding apparel is a journey through time, revealing how horse culture, fashion, and society intertwine. From the ornamental habits of the aristocracy to the breathable fabrics of today’s athletes, every era has contributed something to what we wear now in the saddle.
Riding clothes are more than uniforms, they reflect history, discipline, and identity. Each time I put on my boots or button up a show coat, I feel connected to a long line of equestrians who shaped this sport and its style. The evolution of English riding apparel isn’t just about what looks good in the ring; it’s about what works best for riders and their horses, today and tomorrow.
